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May 13th, 2009
We arrived in Guatemala in the early afternoon. From the airport, we drove through Guatemala City towards Antigua. Although the distance between the two cities is short, the capital’s heavy traffic prolonged our travel. The drive allowed me the opportunity to snap some one hundred pictures of the city’s various taxis, buses, and Pollo Campero delivery motorcycles.
Antigua is beautiful. The picturesque volcano view, cafés, and cobble stone streets are welcomed amenities for the exhausted traveler. After settling in at the hotel, we enjoyed a pleasant group dinner at the Fonda Restaurant, just up from the city’s central park. I ordered chicken stew. Half of it was consumed when Gary Davenport mistakenly thought it was his order.
After resting for a short while, several of us stopped at a café near the hotel. The coffee was fantastic. We then went on to a couple bars and sampled the local beer. Unlike the coffee, the beer was not fantastic. In preparation for our early morning bus ride to Flores, I decided to return to the hotel; I was sound asleep by 9:30.
May 14th, 2009
Today, we spent the entire day on a charter bus bound to Flores. The ride was long, exhausting, and generally uncomfortable. I have concluded that I am in fact susceptible to carsickness. On a positive note, lunch was wonderful. In hindsight, as I am editing this at the conclusion of our trip, I think it was the best meal I had during the entirety of my time in Central America.
May 15th, 2009
We spent today in the classic Mayan site, Yaxha. Here Matt lectured on several topics and then led us on a tour of the sites restored structures. After an extensive hike through the site’s trails, we ate lunch atop a temple-pyramid. Although the food itself could be considered poor at best, the spectacular view made everything taste wonderful.
Following lunch, we continued to explore the site’s structure, stopping briefly for Matt and Mehera to speak with the press(?). Several of us walked down to the lakeshore, after coming under attack by a swarm of butterflies, our exploration was abandoned. After returning to the group, we encountered the elusive spider monkey. Alas, every photograph I took of the fabled primate was blurry or obscured by the canopy.
May 16th, 2009
Today we went to the classic Mayan site Siebal and the pre-classic site Aguateca. We traveled between each location via speedboat, departing initially from Sayaxche. At both sites, Matt lectured and we explored the restored structures. Although the hikes required to reach each location proved to be daunting, in the end, it was well worth the physical effort.
The boat ride back to Sayaxche was a nice chance to relax, listen to music, and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Although exhausting, today’s excursion was richly informative on pre-classic and classic Mayan civilization.
May 17th, 2009
The majority of today was spent in transit from Flores to Tikal. Around 5pm we attempted to go to the park’s museum, however, it was closed. In the evening, I caught up on reading and later enjoyed drinks with my travel companions. I retired to my suite at a timely hour in preparation for the next day’s activities.
May 18th, 2009
(Impression Paper) Today we explored the Tikal archaeological park. The structures at Tikal are simply unreal. It has an incredible array of pyramids and stone complexes. The site contains an extraordinary pair of opposing twin pyramids, extending high above the jungle canopy. These stunning twin pyramids serve as an iconic reminder of the magnitude of the Mayan civilization.
While touring the site, I noticed that some structures were in the process of being restored. It is fascinating to witness archeology, or at least restoration, in action. Do to the fact that our trip is taking place during the rainy season; we have yet to encounter an active archeological worksite. I would be interested to see the work required to restore a site as massive as Tikal. I am also curious to know about the techniques employed to protect and preserve the structures.
It was interesting to see the replica thatch-roof buildings located throughout the site. I sometimes fail to picture the sites as anything but abandoned stone ruins. These replicas aided my “archeological imagination” in assembling an image of the city during its peak. I vividly imagined people carrying out their day-to-day activities. I would like to know more about the life and daily affairs of common people.
Although Tikal has thousands of impressive structures, only a small portion of the site has been explored. The site features an extensive network of unexcavated earthworks. Archeologists are not certain of the exact function of these earthworks. Additionally, Tikal’s residential area has not yet been fully investigated. The area may contain endless amounts of artifacts, possibly shedding light on life of Mayan commoners.
Additionally, Tikal has many large preserved and restored stone tablets. These tablets are inscribed with hieroglyphs that depict the history of the city and its rulers. An apparent lapse in inscriptions has led scholars to conclude that Tikal faced a temporary collapse after a military defeat by a neighboring city-state. The collapse occurred approximately between the 6th and 7th century. This time-lapse is also used to mark the division between early and late classic periods.
Tikal is still a work in progress. We are as much ignorant of Tikal as we are informed. While archaeologists persist in their efforts, uncovering new structures and artifacts, our understanding of Tikal and the Mayan civilization will continue to expand. Presumably, Tikal’s vast territory has many hidden treasures. I am excited at the impact these future findings may have. In the end, we may find that the history of Tikal is even more compelling than we originally thought.
Overall, Tikal is simply breathtaking. From a laymen’s point of view, Tikal’s grandeur and degree of restoration place it on a level much higher than other archaeological sites. The captivating temple-pyramids act as an exclamation point, dramatically denoting the enormity and significance of the city. It would seem that Tikal’s importance to archaeology is almost unparalleled. I look forward to the future discoveries made at this site.
May 19th, 2009
Today we had a free day for the intention of exploring Flores. I squandered much of my time by leisurely visiting the shops located on the island. Around mid-afternoon, Ryan, Molly, and I chartered a Tuk Tuk and made our way to the central market. Although the almost endless array of merchants and wares offered interesting visual texture, the market was a bit overwhelming. After a quick walk through, we returned to the island to rest and reenergize. The night concluded with dinner and drinks.
May 20th, 2009
We spent today traveling from Flores to Livingston. Our transportation was split between microbus and speedboat. The bus ride was, well, a bus ride, but the speedboat ride was incredible. Livingston is beautiful and our accommodations are fantastic. During dinner, we were entertained by a Garifuna drum and dance ensemble. It is interesting to see how West African traditions are revived by their descendents in Central America.
May 21st, 2009
This morning we went to Livingston’s municipal Garifuna museum. The museum chronicles the history of the Garifuna, West African descendents, in Guatemala and Central America. It featured exhibits on the Garifuna’s ethnic identity and struggle for equality. Our tour guide demonstrated several Garifuna musical instruments.
Music plays a very important rule in Garifuna culture. It is a blend of traditional West African, indigenous, and Spanish styles. The guide also expanded on Garifuna religious beliefs and cosmology. Although I have yet to explore this topic thoroughly, it seems that similar to their music, Garifuna religious beliefs are a meld of West African, indigenous, Spanish (Catholic/Christian) traditions.
After touring the museum, I spent the remainder of the day on the beach. At dinner, in accordance with the spirit of the evening, I tried the Garifuna Tapado. It was like unpacking a suitcase full of seafood and plantains. Do not be mistaken by my imagery, it was wonderful. After dinner, I returned to my room and promptly fell asleep.
May 22nd, 2009
The entirety of today was spent in transit from Livingston to Coban. Again, travel was split between speedboat and microbus. Our trip was interrupted when our vessel’s captain unexpectedly decided to stop at a shore side hot spring. Although the spring itself was a bit underwhelming, Matt led some of us up a trail and into a cave. However, we were unprepared, lacking the necessary accoutrements. We finally arrived at our hotel in the late evening.
May 23rd, 2009
Today we were introduced to the author of our text, Dr. Arthur Demarest. While at the hotel, Dr. Demarest lectured, touching on topics ranging from Mayan civilization, colonialism, and post WWII German immigration, to much less academic matters, such as avoiding unrefrigerated mayonnaise when eating out.
Following Dr. Demarest’s lecture, we went to a private Mayan ceremony on the invitation of a high-ranking Mayan priest. The ceremony was the finely to a weeklong period of sacred ritual and celebration. It was an honor to participate in today’s ceremony. It was an excellent opportunity to put on the lens of the anthropologist and examine contemporary Mayan customs in action. The night ended with a group dinner at the La Posada.
May 24th, 2009
Unfortunately after many failed attempts to do something interesting; we ended up at the mall. I am not a big fan of the mall, however, it was a chance to observe Guatemala’s emerging “middle class”. The rest of my day was spent in the confines of the hotel. I was able to catch up on reading and relax in the hotel’s hammocks.
May 25th, 2009
This morning we toured the Dusseldorf plantation. The guide walked us through the process of coffee production from seed to packaging. Following the tour, we were invited to sample coffee and ask any remaining questions. We then returned to the hotel, packed up our bags and boarded our microbus. After briefly stopping in Raxruja, we returned to the microbus and continued on to Cancuen.
We concluded our bus ride at the shore of the river. Our travel would continue via speedboat for approximately one more hour. When we finally reached Cancuen, Dr. Demarest and several camp guards greeted our arrival. After a quick nap, we were fed a traditional Mayan dinner, consisting of rooster, soup, rice, tortilla, and watermelon.
As we enjoyed drinks, Dr. Demarest preceded to lecture on the history of Mayan civilization and the Cancuen archeology site. During his lecture and throughout the course of the night’s festivities, we were treated to traditional harp and violin music. I was able to speak with Dr. Demarest on the topic of philosophy; however, due to the night’s excesses our conversation was abridged. We slept in tents at the campsite.
May 26th, 2009
After a slow start, Dr. Demarest led us on a tour of the Cancuen archeology site. Three petrology PhD students from France accompanied us. Dr. Demarest led us through the site’s restored and unrestored structures, stopping to lecture at various points. The site features one of the largest known palaces in the Mayan world. At the conclusion of the tour, we returned to camp for lunch. We then hiked back to shore, were we took a speedboat down the river.
It is interesting to see modern Guatemalan life in a rural town. Unlike the previous locations we have stayed in, Raxruja is not overrun with tourists and backpackers. Here you can see what life is like for the majority of Guatemala’s population. On a side note, my hotel room was overrun – with cockroaches.
(Impression Paper) In his Cancuen lecture, Dr. Demarest mentioned the importance of “ethical archeology”. Although I am not exactly certain what he intends by this, I do think his statement advances a notable point. Before I continue, I must note that I have no formal experience with academic archeology. My opinions on the field are shaped as much by factual, yet anecdotal, knowledge as they are shaped by brazen Hollywood caricatures, like Indiana Jones. Admittedly, this is not the most ideal platform to begin one’s analysis. With this point made clear, I would like to address the value of Dr. Demarest’s approach.
Unlike the practitioners of other academic fields, particularly those in the humanities, archeologists and anthropologists are in the unique position to be in direct contact with their individuals of study. Ideally, they are well in tune with the history, traditions, and norms of a given culture. Archeologists and anthropologists are capable of assessing the needs of a society from the perspective of those within the society. In this, they are most suited to deliver aid without imposing aid.
Efforts in international aid and development often come with at unexpected cost. Alongside the noble delivery of sustenance, education, and economic initiatives, some organizations also, intentionally or unintentionally, impose their own ethnocentrically held values and standards. In a sense, these organizations commit a category mistake. What is necessary and good in one cultural context may not be necessary and good in another. The effects of this phenomenon are obvious in regions where one agency is responsible for all undertakings.
Here in, the archeologist and anthropologist become very useful. If this line of thought were to be implemented in its simplest form, before beginning an operation, a responsible humanitarian agency would first consult the anthropological work of that particular area. This effort at being culturally responsible could be taken one step further, and an anthropologist could be employed as a fulltime adviser. Yet, to this point I digress. The anthropologist is not obligated nor necessarily qualified to accomplish the duties of the aid and development worker.
More inline with Dr. Demarest’s approach, aid and development initiatives could be embedded within the archeology project. Project coordinators could hire indigenous laborers at just wages, although, employment should not solely be limited to manual labor. Local students could be invited to study and participate as apprentices. Additionally, sites could be left in a state that allows for future productive use. As an example of this, Dr. Demarest is in the process of constructing an indigenous run eco-tourist campsite.
The responsibilities of ethical archeology can be understood in many different ways; however, reciprocity and cultural stewardship is fundamental. By following Dr. Demarest’s lead, archeologists and anthropologists can have a direct and positive impact in some of the world’s most destitute regions. Humanitarian work is a multidiscipline endeavor. The archeologist and anthropologist can function as a productive component in the movement towards progress and prosperity.
May 27th, 2009
Today we explored caves located just outside of Raxruja. Caves played a very important rule in the Mayan civilization, the Mayan’s considered caves to be the entrance to the underworld. In times of particular need, priests would descend into a cave and practice special ceremonies, such as bloodletting.
As I recall we explored three caves and then returned for lunch. The third cave left us muddy and disheartened. We unsoiled ourselves in the river and then ate. The chicken was fantastic. After lunch, we each were handed an innertube and proceeded to hike to the last cave. We submerged ourselves in the water at the mouth of the cave, and paddled on, exploring the various chambers. Today was interesting, however, I wish I brought a better flashlight.
May 28th, 2009
This morning we woke up early, packed up the microbus, and headed off to El Salvador. After a very long and winedy ride to through Guatemala and El Salvador we reached our destination, La Libertad. From what I could see by looking out the window, El Salvador seems to be much more urbanized than Guatemala. There is also a notable absence of Gallo and Tigo advertisements. In my excitement to no longer be on the microbus, I ran to the edge of the beach, where the water meets the sand; the unexpectedly strong tide stole my sandal.
May 29th & May 30th, 2009
I have not remove my bathing suit in the last two days. Although we have been stuck in the hotel, with a beach, (good) food, and refreshing “ool” (there’s no “p” in this “ool”), La Libertad has been quite pleasurable. Unfortunately, on occasion, we have had to deal with some less than desirable weather. In fact, this morning I ate breakfast in a poncho. During our last night in La Libertad, Mehera continued her lecture on the colonial period, touching on the rule of the United States in the establishment of the Banana Republics, Cold War politics, and the underdevelopment of Central America.
May 31st, 2009
This morning we boarded the microbus and began our trip to Perquin. Perquin was the site of an FMLN holdout during the civil war. Upon our arrival, we went to the Museum of the Revolution. As Gary accurately put it, we should consider the museum a shrine, rather than just a simple military exhibit. The photographs, equipment, and weapons are monuments to the sacrifice of the war’s victims and guerillas alike. Our museum guide noted that he was an FMLN guerilla during the war. It was fascinating to see the recreation of Radio Venceremos and replica Guerrilla Camp. I also thought it is interesting to count the number of women pictured with weapons. I did not realize that such a large number of women had participated in the civil war as armed guerrilla soldiers.
The museum’s most jarring feature is the wreckage of Colonel Monterrosa’s helicopter. I felt very uncomfortable when I saw “Made in U.S.A.” stamped on the helicopter’s seat. It was a reminder that the United States is as much to blame for the atrocities of the civil war as the El Salvadorian Government. I could not help but feel incredibly guilty for both what I had read in The Massacre at El Mozote and what I saw at the museum.
June 1st, 2009
Today we went to the site of the El Mozote massacre. Before arriving at the site, our tour guide gave a passionate and emotional lecture on his life during the civil war. He concluded by stating that, he no longer felt like a whole man. We then boarded our bus and began the drive to El Mozote.
When we arrived at El Mozote, we were directed to the memorial located in the center of the city. Here, a young woman from the city spoke on the events of the civil war and the December massacre. To the left of the memorial is the burial place of Rufina Amaya, El Mozote’s only survivor. We moved on to the location of the old church. The only remaining sign of the old church is a white baptismal fountain. A new church has been constructed in its place.
On the right side of the new church is The Garden of Innocents. The garden was established as a memorial to the many children and infants who were murdered in the massacre. On the left of the new church is a colorful mural celebrating the community’s optimistic outlook for the city’s future. We ended our tour by visiting the site’s gift shop, whose proceeds directly benefit the people of El Mozote.
It was eerie to be in a place where so many horrible things happened such a short time ago. We must not forget about events like El Mozote. Although in situations, such as civil war, it is often hard to find a balance between the need to move towards peace and the need for retribution, in order to avoid future catastrophes, we must keep the unfortunate story of that Decemeber day alive.
June 2nd & June 3rd, 2009
We arrived in Juayúa, El Salvador, yesterday, June 2nd. Juayúa is a small town that seems to cater to young European tourists and backpackers. There are interesting cubist murals throughout the city and our hotel has a youthful and artistic vibe. Today we toured a coffee plantation. Located on the plantation’s grounds, are several large stone face sculptures. Dr. Demarest excavated these stone sculptures while working on his PhD. After visiting the plantation, we returned to our hotel and then went on to a nearby café for (a very cheesy) lunch.
Juayúa appears to have a big problem with poverty and homelessness. This is particularly noticeable when it is considered juxtaposed to the quaint boutique shops and gourmet cafés. At points, I felt very uncomfortable with the obvious inequalities between the European and American tourist and the city’s native residents. Although I realize that poverty is an almost perennial problem throughout Latin America, this is the first time on our trip that the injustice of the region’s massive level of destitution could be viewed so clearly.
June 4th, 2009
Most of today was spent in transit to Lake Atitlan. Our extended journey was well worth it; the lake is magnificent. In the evening, the water reflects the stunning deep blue of the sky. The hue has a relaxing and refreshing effect on one’s eyes. Although a complete view of the sunset is obstructed by the hills, its golden rays escape, saturating the billowing layer of clouds. I don’t want to leave, ever.
June 5th, 2009
This morning we took a fairy across the lake to Panajachel. When we reached the shore, a national guide welcomed our arrival. We were then hustled on to the back of a pick-up and began the drive through town in search of Maximon. We found Maximon in his shrine just outside of the city of Santiago de Atitlan. After presenting our offering of cigarettes, rum, and Quetzalteca, we were urged to indulge in the day’s ceremony.
Following the ceremony, we started our trek back to town, making stops at a Catholic church and the market. The church had a fascinating collection of Mayan and Catholic articles. It appears that the iconography in Mayan Catholicism places a greater emphasis on saints and other human/humanlike figures. When we returned to town, we charted a speedboat to San Marcos La Laguna. Here we ate lunch and then returned to San Pedro La Laguna.
June 6th, 2009
Today we had a free day to explore Lake Atitlan. I began the morning with a pleasant breakfast consisting of the usual plantains, beans, eggs, and tortillas. After breakfast, I went kayaking with Matt, Carla, and several other classmates. We rowed along the lakefront for approximately an hour and then returned to the shore. Later in the afternoon, Carla and I went on a horseback tour of San Pedro La Laguna. The night concluded with drinks and dinner.
I can’t help but be aggravated by Lake Atitlan’s “hippie” population. In a sense, the hippies have colonized the lakeside communities. Most of the shops, bars, and restaurants in San Pedro La Laguna appear to be owned and operated by this hippie bourgeoisie. From what I understand, recent restrictions have made it more difficult for foreigners to own property in “prime” areas, including the lakefront. However, the significant social changes that would result from such restrictions are not yet visible.
June 7th, 2009
This morning – those not incapacitated by illness – journeyed to the market in Chichicastenago. Although the market was at times a bit overwhelming, it was an intriguing place for social observation. I think it’s interesting to note, that after walking around for sometime, one can notice a clear separation between the sections of the market patronized by tourist and the sections patronized by native residents. On occasion, I felt uncomfortable with the age of the merchants, some appeared to be as young as 6 or 7 years old. We left the market by mid-afternoon and then made the windy drive back to San Pedro La Laguna.
June 8th, 2009
We spent much of today in transit to Antigua. On the way, we briefly stopped at Iximche, a postclassical Kaqchikel site. While there, we toured the site’s restored structures and Matt lectured on the Mayan postclassical period and the city’s history. After a very winedy drive (again), we reached Antigua in the mid-afternoon. This is the last destination on our trip.
June 9th, 2009
Today we went to the National Museum of Archeology and Ethnology and the Guatemalan Forensic Anthropology Foundation in Guatemala City. The Archeology museum has an extensive collection of tablets, sculptures, pottery, and other artifacts. Its collection ranges from the pre-classic to post-classic period. I appreciated the miniature city models. My archeological imagination has often failed to reconstruct the sites we have visited. Seeing the cities in their entirety, with people and animals, is definitely useful.
Our visit to the FAFG aroused and amplified the same emotions I felt at the Museum of the Revolution and El Mozote. I am shameful for the United States’ actions and in actions during the civil war. Undoubtedly, our nation’s policies continue to marginalize and cause turmoil throughout Central America. I am at a loss for what to do. I would like to optimistically hold on to a canon of change and progress, however, the atrocities that persist across the globe give me little grounds for such conviction.
(Impression Paper) The Guatemalan Forensic Anthropology Foundation is an internationally funded agency responsible for investigating the murders and atrocities that took place during the Guatemalan civil war. The organization employs the techniques derived from archeology and anthropology to excavate and thoroughly examine sites of mass murder. The FAFG intends to use their findings as evidence in the prosecution of war criminals. The organization’s leadership faces strong opposition from high-ranking government and military officials. The organization’s director has received multiple death threats.
It is very difficult for me to discuss what we witnessed on our tour of the facility. We were brought into a room containing the skeletons of approximately forty recently exhumed civil war victims. In clinical parlance, our guide described the execution of a mother and her two kids. Red arrows denoted areas with skeletal damage consistent with gunshot and shrapnel trauma. After examining the skull of a gunshot victim, the guide speculated on the bullets trajectory and caliber.
Although I would rather not meander through my memories of the tour, I believe such graphic imagery is necessary to adequately capture the daunting task preformed by the organization’s forensic anthropologists. The forensic anthropologist is the only specialist equipped with the multiple skills required to accomplish such a tedious and particular operation. The job demands extensive training and mastery.
I suspect that much of the FAFG’s competence extends from Guatemala’s extensive history of archeological and anthropological exploration. I am curious to see the number of professional (academic) archeologist and anthropologist involved in the FAFG’s endeavors. I hope and expect that the numerous archeologist and anthropologist, who explore Guatemala’s ancient Mayan sites, regularly contribute energy and expertise to the organization.
I would also be interested to see the number of students currently enrolled in forensic anthropology programs. I believe that similar to medical and education tracks, these programs should be incentivized with grants and reductions on student loan debt. Universities could provide graduate students with financial aid and fellowships in exchange for service at the FAFG and other similar organizations. Such a program would both enhance the technical skills of its participants and fulfill a very important and noble cause.
FAFG’s work is fundamental to Guatemala’s peace process. Forensic anthropology has the power to uncover the truth of Guatemala’s obscured past. Although the national and international courts may fail to produce justice, history will. FAFG is rewriting the lost pages of Guatemala’s history. It is filling in the many intentionally left blanks and sorting out fact from fiction. In the end, a truthful account of history will prosecute those that have done wrong. I applaud the work and dedication of this organization and its employees.
June 10th, 2009
I’ve delighted in today’s free and last day by doing some urban exploring and last minute shopping. I have finally procured the perfect Panama hat, yet sadly, the handcrafted leather handbag remains elusive. After recklessly spending on whim and impulse, I rejoined the group for our last shared meal. We had dinner at Frida's and I then returned to the hotel to pack up. Guatemala has been great. I hope to return soon.
June 11th, 2009 – Conclusion
Faculty led study abroad programs afford students an unparalleled opportunity be completely emerged in their field of study. I have come to an understanding of the Mayan world that extends far beyond the information conveyed in textbooks and lectures. Standing atop the temples of centuries old Mayan cities, participating in the eclectic ceremonies of contemporary Mayan people, and meeting the survivors of two brutal civil wars, are experiences that, simply, cannot be simulated in a lecture hall.
This trip has expanded and broadened my understanding of the world and its history. My sentiments have ranged from intrigue to shame. I have been made to feel both guilty and proud of my – and my nation’s – impact on the world. In the end, this trip has provided be with great insight into both my identity and the identity of others around me. I have achieved at least four years of personal growth in four weeks. Thank you for this opportunity.
accomplished
bored
awake
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